By Fishing Only | In Fly Fishing | No Comments »
By Doug Kelly
Fly Fishing for Large Game Fish
Targeting large game fish in deep water on fly was considered an impossibility before the 1950’s, and even up until the past 15 years or so, only an elite handful of fly fishers pursued it. Few people believed fly tackle stood much chance against billfish and other wide-shouldered predators, with even dolphin and tuna considered monster opponents for fly fishers. Read the rest »
By Fishing Only | In Tarpon Fishing, Fly Fishing | No Comments »
For those seeking the ultimate tarpon thrill, nothing compares to catching one on fly. And Miami’s skilled fly-fishing guides can turn newcomers into successful tarpon fishermen in one day.
Look for the best opportunities on a mild or calm, cold day after a front passes. That’s when tarpon are easiest to cast to, says Capt. Louis Cruc. From late winter to early spring, "It’s nothing to see as many as 70 pods working in every direction off Fowey Light," says Cruc, who likes to begin his fishing day with the tide change during early morning.
By Fishing Only | In Bass Fishing, Freshwater Fishing | No Comments »
By Pierce Hoover
I see water. Andy Goodwin sees fish. "Where?" I squint into the afternoon sun.
"Right off the end of that point, " he instructs. "I’ll bet there’s some vertical structure that’s holding bait, and most likely a bass lurking right by that water change where the creek flows in. "
Since we have no fishing lures or poles on board, Andy can’t prove his hunch, but he speaks with the confidence of the veteran bass hunter he is.
We are on Sutton Lake, a wooded reservoir tucked in the hills of central West Virginia. My original assignment was to tour the state’s lake district, but plans changed when I walked into Mid State Marina and met Andy. Instead of the runabout we originally reserved, Mid State offered up a 18-foot Nitro bass boat, along with their local fishing guru to act as guide.
Now we are giving our new fishing boat a shakedown cruise, and Andy is deep into his favorite subject.
Sutton is a typical highland lake. It’s really deep in the middle, with nothing to hold fish, he says. Your best bet here is to work the edges, especially the ends of the points and the shallow coves.
Structure and shelter are key, I learn. A rock or brush pile provides baitfish with some degree of cover and protection, and the bass follow the bait. Andy switches on the boat’s electronic fish finding sonar to confirm his suspicions.
The sounder’s screen shows the silhouette of a steep ledge surrounded by a cloud of indistinct gray blotches. "We are looking at a school of baitfish," Andy says. Suddenly, a much larger smudge appears. A trophy bass? Without a hook and line, we’ll never know.
Far too early the next morning, my wife Jeanette and I hitch the borrowed bass boat to our Jeep Cherokee. We negotiate a winding two-lane road in the predawn fog, stopping in the small town of Burnsville to pick up Andy and his collection of fishing gear.
Today’s destination is Burnsville Lake, Andy’s home turf. Having spent more than half of his 36 years pursuing bass on this lake, he and his brother Mark are the local guys to beat. We stop for bait and coffee refills at the Burnsville Dock bait shop, and notice that the walls are decorated with photos of Andy and Mark holding trophy-size bass.
"They win more than their share of fishing contests," dock owner David Waldron tells me. "Just two nights ago, they split the winnings at one of our local tournaments."
We launch at sunrise, but the parking lot is already filled with boat trailers, and we can see a number of fishermen working the coves nearby.
"Why do fishermen always start so early?" Jeanette asks.
"That’s when the fish are up and feeding in the cooler air," Andy says. "By midday, the heat sends them deeper."
Just then, we reach the end of the no-wake zone, and Andy punches the throttle. The low-profile bass boat leaps onto a plane and skims across the glass-calm water at close to 60 mph.
"Why does a fishing boat have to go so fast?" Jeanette yells over the wind and the whine of the 150-hp outboard.
Andy throttles back and aims for a brush-covered section of shoreline. "I wanted to get some distance between us and those other fishermen," he explains. "When the lake’s crowded, I head for the far corners where the fish haven’t seen so many hooks. And not just any piece of shoreline will do," Andy tells us. Like most experienced fishermen, he has his favorite lunker holes: sunken logs, ledges, brush piles, weed beds.
If a hungry bass is cruising one of these locations, the fisherman should be able to lure him into striking within a couple of minutes. If not, it’s time to pick up and run to the next spot.
And that’s where the extra speed comes in handy. The less time you spend running from one place to the other, the more time you can put baits in the water, and the more fish you’ll catch.
Turns out we’re cruising the lake on a tournament bass fisherman’s dream boat: Big engine out back, high-speed planing hull underneath, two low-slung seats to hunker in while running at top speed, a pair of pedestals to sit or lean on while casting, and plenty of storage and live-well space underneath a flat deck, with no obstacles to foul a fishing line or lure.
I don’t see any other tournament-style bass boats on the lake, and ask why.
"A lot of West Virginia lakes are small, so you don’t need a big, fast boat if you just fish locally, and for fun," he says. "I need a competition boat because I fish tournaments from Florida to the Midwest, but around here, a 14-foot aluminum boat is a lot easier to trailer on the narrow roads and in the mountains."
Andy’s run-and-gun style of fishing has us running the length of the 9-mile lake, with frequent stops to fire a lure into promising bits of water. By midmorning, Jeanette has landed and released a respectable large-mouth bass, and Andy has demonstrated the advantages of local knowledge. He seems to recognize every underwater ridge, stump and brush pile, and knows just what it takes to tempt a bass into biting.
As the day heats up, the fish move into deeper, cooler waters. To compensate, Andy switches to smaller sinking lures. "In midday, they get lazy, so you have to get the baits down right in front of them," he says.
By noon, the fishing and our enthusiasm wane, and we decide to call a time out and regroup for lunch. Like most bass fishermen, we have released everything we caught.
After lunch, we load the boat back on the trailer for a 30-mile drive north to West Virginia’s newest lake. While other area reservoirs date back to the 1950s or ‘60s, Stonewall Jackson Lake was created in the late 1980s. In addition, it is situated among rolling hills rather than the steep mountain valleys typical of the state’s southern lakes.
Remembering Andy’s observation that a reservoir’s underwater terrain usually mirrors the topside surroundings, I guess that this lake is shallower, probably dozens of feet deep rather than hundreds. Surveying the acres of decaying tree stumps created when the rising waters flooded forest lowlands a decade ago, I also guess that this will be a particularly fishy lake because it contains lots of structure and shelter.
Andy confirms both guesses, then pulls out his tackle box to re-rig with smaller, darker lures. "Dark lures for dark water," he says, "and small lures because the warmer water will make the fish less aggressive. Days like this, you have to present the lure right to the fish, and you have to work it nice and slow," he says.
We spy a group of standing tree trunks. While Andy maneuvers us into position with the electric trolling motor, I survey the scene and recall what I have just learned about bass.
Hmmm. A tree on the bank is casting a distinct shadow over a fallen log, and nearby some clearer water from a tributary stream is mixing with the muddy lake water. If I were a bass, I’d hide in the shade, and in the muddy water right under that log, then I’d wait for a tasty snack to wander in from the clearer stream water. I could see them, but they couldn’t see me.
I cast into the edge of the clear water, a little past the log, then work my bait slowly toward the darker water. Nothing happens as it moves past the log, then a half-second later, I feel that expected but always unexpected spasm of a striking fish.
I didn’t catch it, but at least I’d learned how to read the water and think like a fish.
Saturday morning, we traded our 18-footer in for a 20-foot Nitro powered by a 200-horse outboard. "This is a big-lake boat," Andy says, "a favorite of fishermen in the southern states where reservoirs may be 50 miles long and choppy."
In addition to a couple of extra feet of length and more width, the Nitro 20 has about 600 pounds more heft. It sits on a tandem-axle trailer with substantial hydraulic brakes. "We’ll appreciate the bigger boat on the waters of Summersville Lake," Andy tells us. "It’s the state’s largest and most popular reservoir, and on weekends you can expect a lot of boat wakes."
The day’s first task, however, is the safe transit of some 50 miles of mountain roads. Fortunately, the Jeep has more umph than expected, and I’ve learned a few things about mountain driving from my days in Colorado: Leave plenty of reaction room, downshift on the steep downhills, pull over to let faster traffic pass, and generally take it easy enough to conserve both the transmission and the brakes.
We arrive in midmorning, and the Summersville boat ramp already is lined with weekend boaters waiting to launch. Not many fishermen today. It’s all ski boats and runabouts.
"I don’t fish this lake very often," Andy says. " It’s deep and a lot of the shoreline is rock cliffs. The only places where I do any good are in the finger coves and in the shallows right by the boat ramp."
We run past towering sandstone cliffs, watch children leap bravely from overhanging rocks, and discover hidden coves where families have set up beachfront camps. It is a day that summer vacation memories are made of, but not to the liking of a dedicated bass hunter like Andy. Too many boats, too hot and too little structure.
On the drive home, Andy talks about his time on the tournament trail and of his ambition to make it on the professional bass-fishing circuit. For him, bass fishing is not just a weekend sport, it is a way of life.
I must admit that until a few days ago, I considered fishing to be a convenient way to escape household chores while tipping a few beers and telling a lot of lies. Now I can see the sport through Andy’s eyes. Rather than simply tossing a hook overboard and hoping for the best, I now try to read and understand the waters, visualizing the what and why of the underwater landscape and anticipating the actions of both predator and prey.
It’s the difference between going fishing and being a fisherman. And while I’ll probably never fish with the dedication Andy brings to the sport, I’ve begun to understand the urge that lures fishermen from warm beds at unreasonable hours of the morning.
Jeanette tells me that she has also gained a new respect and understanding for the sport, but still wonders why fish can’t learn to sleep in until a decent hour.
By Fishing Only | In Bass Fishing, Freshwater Fishing, Fishing Tips | 3 Comments
By Tim Lee
Enjoy fishing for those largemouth bass? Here are some largemouth bass fishing tips that should come in handy the next time you are ready to do a little angling.
(1) Worms or tubes bought in bulk could get smelly, even outside of the bag they’re stored in. You should seal these worms in smaller vacuum sealer bags like those you purchase for food storage. Keeps the largemouth bass bait airtight and fresh, so they can be stored anywhere for any length of time.
(2) Fish seem to gain leverage with hard baits such as top waters, jerk baits or crank baits and can easily throw them. One solution to this is to add a split ring, putting it between the ring that is already there and the hook. This reduces the fish’s leverage, which puts a greater number of fish in the live well.
(3) Begin a fishing excursion before you ever reach the water. Largemouth fishing tips include formulating a plan. After executing the plan for a few hours, decide how it’s working and if it’s not go to your plan "B".
(4) Are those largemouths not cooperating? Switch to a bait you have confidence in.
(5) Change fishing spots, even if you have a favorite, be sure to try new spots often.
(6) You should also be willing to study a lake map and consider the season and current weather conditions even if you are fishing on a very familiar lake. You may have missed a great fishing spot.
(7) Use a personal computer before leaving on your fishing trip to discern lake levels, weather forecasts, and wind and wave conditions.
(8) Be willing to change your game plan. Pay attention to your instincts.
(9) Don’t get ahead of yourself and set the hook as soon as you see the strike. You need to feel the fish.
(10) When the largemouth short strikes behind top water bait and you don’t connect you should not give up. Cast a different bait very quickly.
(11) If you have been using larger lures and you have experienced only a few nonproductive bites it may be time to try something smaller.
(12) Remember to take into consideration the root system when fishing a stump. The root systems may hold more fish than the main part of the stump.
Now that you have these largemouth bass fishing tips, head for your favorite fishing spot and bring in a big one!
| For advanced bass fishing techniques, please visit http://www.catch-largemouth-bass.com/ |
By Fishing Only | In Flies & Lures, Salt Water Fishing, Fishing Tips | 6 Comments
Many anglers become so conditioned to saltwater fishing with live bait that they overlook perhaps the most potent fish-catching weapons available – jigs. While it’s hard to beat a bait that wiggles when it comes to tempting saltwater predators, jigs will often draw strikes when live bait fails to do the trick. This seems to especially hold true when it comes to the bigger pelagic species like tuna and yellowtail.
By Fishing Only | In Fishing Tips | 2 Comments
There’s a good reason many animals hibernate during the winter. Preparing for long periods of inactivity and seeking protection against extreme climatic conditions are necessary steps for survival. It’s no different when it comes to your boat and motor. Proper “winterization” is a must for protecting your craft, and ensuring that it’s in ship-shape condition when spring rolls around. Here are some valuable tips for safeguarding your valuable recreational asset during the “off season.”
Fill ‘Er Up
Be sure to fill your boat’s fuel tank to capacity (allowing just a little bit of room for expansion) and add stabilizer, prior to stowing it away for the winter. Failing to do so will allow air into the tank, which can condense on the sides as the temperature changes causing corrosion and clogging over time. Turn off all fuel valves, and use duct tape to seal off any through-hull exhaust ports. This will also help prevent potentially harmful internal condensation. In addition to these steps, remember to replace your boat’s fuel filter and water separator.
Protect Your Engine
Oil tends to settle on the bottom of the engine block when a boat is not being used, exposing the pistons and valves to air, humidity and other corrosive materials. To guard against this situation, remove the spark plugs and spray ”fogging oil” inside the carburetor and down the spark plug holes. Then replace the plugs without reconnecting the wires. This will provide a long-lasting protective coating for these essential engine parts.
It’s also important to replace your engine’s old gear oil with fresh oil. Dispose of any used oil at an authorized recycling center. The lower unit gear case lubricant on outboards and inboard/outdrive engines should also be flushed and changed. This will eliminate water from the system and provide better overall protection for key internal parts. Also replace oil filters on inboard and outdrive engines.
Use the Right AntiFreeze
If your engine uses coolant, drain the existing fluid from the engine block and manifolds and replace with a non-toxic, propylene glycol base antifreeze. Despite pressure from the EPA and other environmental organizations, many antifreeze products still feature an ethylene glycol base, which is known to release toxins into the water. Not only is the propylene glycol variety better for the environment, most manufacturers say this type of antifreeze is better for your engine as well.
Remove Your Battery, Electronics and Safety Devices
If you are planning on storing your boat out of the water, disconnect your the battery and store it at home for easier maintenance and better protection against theft. Removing your battery is not recommended, however, if your boat will be remaining in the water during the winter period. Boats left in the water should have the battery onboard and functioning so the bilge pump will continue to function if needed. If you will be taking your battery off the boat, make sure it is fully charged prior to stowing it away. Be sure to maintain the charge throughout the storage period (to avoid freezing), and replenish the water level periodically. It’s also wise to remove all of your sensitive and valuable marine electronics from the boat for the winter, and to store this equipment in a safe place at home. This will help prevent theft and possible damage caused by shifts in temperature and humidity. Winterization also presents a perfect opportunity to remove items like dock lines, floatation devices, flares, fire extinguishers from the boat for inspection and possible replacement.
Check Your Prop
Take this opportunity to check your boat’s propeller and hub. Your prop blades may have become bent or nicked over the course of the boating season, which can diminish overall performance. The hub may also be have sustained extensive wear and may even be close to being stripped. If this kind of damage has occurred, you should replace the propeller and make any necessary repairs during the winterization process. This way, you won’t have to worry about these things come springtime.
Clean, Clean, Clean Your Boat
Before putting your boat to bed for the winter, be sure to give it a good cleaning inside and out. If you store your boat with dirt, scum, barnacles and the like on the exterior, these impurities will be even harder to remove in the spring. Once the exterior of your boat is sparkly clean, apply a quality polish to create a protective barrier against dirt and dust. When cleaning the interior, don’t forget the teak, vinyl and carpet. These are areas where dirt, combined with moisture can breed mildew, especially in the dark environment of a covered boat with little or no ventilation. To help keep your boat free of mildew, you may want to install a dehumidifier or use one of the odor/moisture “absorbers” offered by various manufacturers. Turn any cushions up on edge so that air can circulate around them, or better yet, remove them from the boat for storage in a climate controlled area. Also remember to clean any bilges and drain any existing water. Remove all drain plugs and put them in a place where they’ll be easy to find when you’re ready to bring your boat out of winter hibernation. Clean any bilges on your boat too, and protect them with a coating of moisture displacing lubricant and a little antifreeze.
Empty Your Head
If your boat is equipped with a marine head, make sure you pump out the holding tank at an approved facility prior to winter storage. Add fresh water to the bowl and flush several times. Use a cleaner approved for your type of system, and let the solution sit for a few minutes before adding more fresh water and pumping it out again. Follow this process by adding antifreeze (alcohol-based if this type of solution won’t damage the system) and pump the coolant through the hoses, holding tank, Y-valve, macerator and discharge hose.
Put it on the Block
If you own a trailer boat, it’s a good idea to put the boat and trailer up on a block for winter to take the pressure off the tires. You may even want to remove the trailer tires to help discourage theft while the boat is in long-term storage. Take the opportunity to inspect the trailer tires for wear and tear. Also grease the wheel bearings, replacing them if necessary.
Go Undercover
Whether you’ll be storing your boat outside, or inside a garage or structure, your craft should be covered. If it will be outdoors and exposed to elements, you’ll need a storage cover to protect the interior of the boat from the harsh winter environment. Even if your boat will be kept in dry storage, a cover of some kind is recommended to guard the interior against dirt, dust, pests and bird droppings. For outdoor storage, a quality 8- to 10-ounce cotton canvas boat cover is ideal. Make sure that the cover properly sized and fitted for your particular boat model. It should also be supported so water will run off the cover and not accumulate in pockets. If your boat will be kept in dry storage for the winter, the waterproof quality and strength of the cover will not be important factors. In this situation, the main concern is keeping dust and other particulate matter from gathering on your boat, so nearly any type of tarp or cover will get the job done. A fitted cover is preferred however, because it will also keep mice, rats and other undesirables from seeking refuge in your boat and damaging the interior.
If conditions will be extreme, you may want to consider “shrink-wrapping” your boat instead of using a standard cover. Only a shrink-wrap cover provides 100 percent waterproof protection, is impossible to blow off, and can withstand heavy loads of snow or rain. Shrink-wrapping your boat can be a do it yourself job, but it requires proper tools, materials and instructions. Complete shrink-wrap kits are available through BoatersWorld.com (Dr. Shrink “Wrap-it-Up” Shrink-Wrap System).
Additional miscellaneous winterization tasks:
Inspect steering systems, including tiller-steering friction fittings on outboards, and tighten them if necessary.
Grease all external fittings on stern drives.
Check bulbs and electrical contacts on the plugs, as well as sockets where the bulbs screw in. Use a moisture displacing lubricant to spray the contact points, and wrap keep the plugs dry by wrapping them with electrical tape.
