Baja’s Cabo San Lucas and East Cape

by Marc Malkin

Our skipper, Jose, pushed the throttle forward on our 28-foot cruiser, as we raced two other boats to a feeding frenzy in process just a few miles from the Cabo’s marina. All three skippers had spotted the surface commotion stirred up by a pack of hungry striped marlin slashing through a large school of baitfish. Excited pelicans also converged on the scene, diving into the fray to take advantage of the offshore smorgasbord. Arriving at the spot just seconds before the other boats, I grabbed a lively Pacific greenback from the baitwell and casted it out. I looked down in the crystal clear water and could see several marlin, their stripes lit up like blue neon signs, in hot pursuit of their panicked prey. Within seconds, line began to move faster off the spool of my Penn 245LD lever drag – one of the predators had picked up my offering. I gave the fish ample time to swallow its meal, and then slammed the hook home. A series of acrobatic leaps and sizzling runs tested my angling skills, but I managed to bring the 150-pound Baja striper to the side of the boat. We removed the hook, revived the tired beast and watched it swim away.

While I was busy battling billfish off Cabo San Lucas, two of my buddies were panga fishing in the Sea of Cortez about 65 miles to the north, just off the tiny East Cape town of Los Barilles. They were doing their best to catch up with a pod of greyhounding porpoise, hoping that some tuna might be mixed in with the marine mammals. Their veteran skipper skillfully steered the 24-foot skiff on a course that would intercept the fast-moving porpoise school. The boat’s feathers were moving along tantalizingly behind the wake, when suddenly, both rods doubled over in the stern. Line screamed off the Senator 6/O reels as my friends grabbed the rods from their holders. The powerful fish immediately sounded, but the determined anglers applied constant pressure, took back line whenever possible, and gradually pumped their fish up from the depths. After about 30 minutes of backbreaking work, both fishermen had put 90-pound East Cape yellowfin on the deck of their super panga.

It’s hard to say whether Cabo San Lucas or the East Cape better fits the description of “Angler’s Paradise.” I suppose it comes down to how you define paradise. Although both destinations offer incredible sport fishing, they differ dramatically when it comes to atmosphere. While some anglers enjoy the lively setting and abundant nightlife in Cabo, others prefer the more tranquil, remote qualities of the East Cape. If you have to choose between the two locations, be aware that these are two very different settings with contrasting personalities.

There are other important factors to consider as well, such as the time of year you’ll be traveling, the game fish you want to target, and your budget for accommodations, food and charter boats. By learning more about what these two unique Baja locations do and don’t offer, you’ll be able to select the site that best suits your style, desires and pocketbook.

A World of Difference
Although just a 1 1/2-hour drive separates Cabo San Lucas and the East Cape, there’s a world of difference between these two Baja destinations. For the angler that also enjoys other diversions, Cabo supplies it all. In addition to some of the finest offshore and inshore fishing to be found anywhere, Cabo also boasts numerous luxury hotels, a wide range of restaurants, shopping, championship golf courses and more. Once a sleepy fishing town and cannery inhabited by only a few hundred people, Cabo has been transformed into a bustling resort that attracts visitors from every continent. This amazing growth has been due to the construction of Los Cabos Airport in nearby San Jose del Cabo, as well as a constant flow of investment and promotional dollars from Mexico’s tourism agency “Fonatur” and the private sector.

Just twenty years ago, Cabo’s natural bay, framed by the now-famous natural rock formation El Arco (The Arc), played host to only a small number of boats. Today, it’s the site of a large, modern marina packed with hundreds of cruisers, super pangas and private sportfishers. Results of the Cabo “boom” are evident everywhere you look. Hotels and time-share condominiums dot Cabo’s previously barren beaches; the dusty trails that used to wind through town are now paved roads with traffic lights; there’s even a high-rise parking structure, a movie theatre, an Internet Cafe, a McDonalds and a Dairy Queen. Cabo’s original hotels – The Hacienda, Finesterra and the budget-priced Mar de Cortez – are still around, although they have all received major facelifts. Another long-standing resort, Hotel Solmar, which also boasts its own sportfishing fleet, has also undergone extensive renovations. In addition to these old favorites, there are many newer hotels and resorts to choose from. While some anglers embrace Cabo’s changes, others would rather experience Baja the way it used be. For these purists, Baja’s East Cape area presents an attractive alternative. This more remote region on the Sea of Cortez, located near the small villages of Los Barilles and Buena Vista, has yet to be totally consumed by civilization. While the modern world is gradually creeping up on the East Cape and its handful of modest yet comfortable fishing lodges, this region remains a vastly unspoiled place – a throwback to another era.

According to Susan Van Laningham, who operates Baja Resorts (1-800-368-4334), the U.S. booking agency for East Cape hotels Palmas de Cortez, Playa del Sol and Punta Colorada, while the East Cape is still remote, many of the area’s lodges should no longer be considered rustic. “The owners – Bobby, Chucky and Eddie Van Wormer – have made significant upgrades to their properties recently,” said Van Laningham. “At Palmas, a new section of deluxe suites has been added, along with an expansive pool overlooking the Sea of Cortez and an adjacent 150-person palapa bar. The original rooms and older sections of the hotel have also been fully refurbished.” The Van Wormers also own the largest sportfishing fleet in all of Mexico, featuring more than 60 cruisers. Other East Cape lodges, such as Rancho Leonero, Buena Vista Beach Resort and Punta Pescadero and Las Arenas have also made considerable improvements and additions to their facilities and fleets.

Accommodations, Fishing and Food
The necessities for visiting anglers – lodging, fishing and food – are typically less expensive in the East Cape than they are in Cabo San Lucas, although most of the East Cape lodges don’t offer the same level of comfort and luxury as Cabo’s mega-resorts. At most of the East Cape hotels, all meals are included with the room price, although there are a few restaurants in the nearby Los Barilles/Buena Vista area if visitors want to experience off site dining. In Cabo, you can expect to pay separately for your food at most hotels, although some offer “American Plans” (which include meals) at an additional cost. To give you a feeling for the hotel price differences, a 4 night stay for two at an East Cape lodge like Palmas de Cortez, including meals, runs approximately $120 per night (plus tax and service charge). In Cabo, at a nicer beachfront hotel such as Sol Mar, a standard double occupancy room will cost you about $170.00 per person, plus tax and gratuity, without meals. Of course, these prices may vary according to the season, special promotions and other factors.

The sportfishing fleets in both areas include cruisers, super pangas and traditional pangas, but you’ll find more “high-ticket” luxury sportfishers available for charter in Cabo. Cruisers typically cost less to charter in the East Cape. For example, if you reserve a 28-foot cruiser through an East Cape lodge like Palmas de Cortez, you’ll pay about $300 (plus tax and gratuity) for a full day of fishing (6:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m.). In Cabo, the same size cruiser through the Sol Mar Fleet, for example, will cost $350, plus tax and gratuity. Super pangas are generally the same price in both locations, ranging from $180 to $220 plus tax and tip. Most of the charter boat prices in both the East Cape and Cabo include dispatch fees, license and drinks, however, there is typically an extra charge for live bait. The going rate for bait in Cabo and the East Cape – typically Pacific mackerel, Spanish mackerel or caballitos – is $2.00 per fish (10-20 live baits are recommended, depending upon the number of anglers and the boat’s bait tank capabilities). Boats out of Cabo usually include tackle in the charter price, whereas the majority of East Cape cruisers and pangas charge a fee of $8 to $10 per person for rental tackle. Standard gratuity for the crew is 10 to 15 percent of the boat cost in both locations. However, anglers often tip more if the service provided is particularly outstanding.
There is one thing that does cost more for visiting East Cape anglers – ground transfers. Most fishermen fly into Los Cabos Airport whether their final destination will be Cabo or the East Cape. Some East Cape anglers do opt to fly into La Paz, however, if they will be staying at Punta Pescadero or Las Arenas – the northernmost East Cape lodges. Round-trip ground transfers for the 45-mile ride between Los Cabos Airport and the East Cape typically run about $42.00 per person (based on a group of 4), when pre-arranged through a tour operator like Baja Resorts. If you try to arrange ground transfers on the spot when you land at the airport, you may end up paying considerably more.

Cabo or the East Cape – When and Where to Fish
The offshore action for powerful pelagics like marlin, sailfish, dorado and yellowfin tuna is often of phenomenal off Cabo, and the same can be said for the East Cape. Both locations also offer excellent fishing for inshore predators like roosterfish, jacks, sierra and cabrilla. Upwelling currents supply an ongoing source of nutrients for the more than 650 different species of fish that live in this area where the Pacific meets the Sea of Cortez. The underwater environment features steep drop-offs and large seamounts that help make this habitat ideal for prey and predators alike. Additionally, the topography of the Baja peninsula creates a sort of natural “fish trap,” causing game fish populations to concentrate within its boundaries.

Angling opportunities off Cabo and the East Cape often vary according to season, prevailing currents, water conditions, bait school movement, and other variables. So how do you know which area will offer the best fishing at any given time? According to Larry Edwards, owner of San Diego-based Cortez Yacht Charters (619-469-4255) and a veteran Cabo San Lucas skipper, there are some basic guidelines, although these are by no means set in stone. “While you’ll find the same species off both locations, the action can be hotter in one area than the other at different times of the year.” said Edwards. “Generally speaking, the fishing is best off Cabo San Lucas from October through January, while April through November is typically peak season in the East Cape. March and April are usually slower months for the charter boats out of Cabo,” Edwards noted. “During this period, colder bands of green water sometimes move in and virtually shut down the action,” he noted. In the East Cape, the fishing can come to a complete halt from December through February when the powerful north winds blow. “It really howls in the East Cape during this period, making it tough to impossible for boats to get out to the productive grounds in the Sea of Cortez,” Edwards said. “If you’re planning a fishing trip for this time of year, you’ll be much better off in Cabo.”

Despite the fact that fishing pressure has increased greatly off both Cabo and the East Cape, both locations still boast amazing numbers of game fish, especially blue marlin, striped marlin, sailfish, dorado and yellowfin tuna. Edwards notes that catch-and-release fishing is practiced more than ever off Cabo, helping to significantly boost the billfish populations. However, according to Edwards, the fishing off both Cabo and the East Cape is tougher than it was years ago. “The fish are still there, but a lot more boats are chasing them now,” he said. “When I first started fishing these waters decades ago, you could head out and there wouldn’t be another cruiser or panga in sight. That’s definitely not the case anymore,” said Edwards. “During high season off Cabo, for example, you might have 50 to 100 boats fishing a general area at the same time. The competition has increased tremendously.”

Hot Spots
There are several haunts off Cabo and the East Cape that seem to consistently produce more and larger game fish than others. These hot-spots seem to be especially attractive to all members of the Baja food chain, from microscropic krill to various types of baitfish to the “alpha” saltwater predators. Edwards points out that the majority of boats fishing out of Cabo from October through January target areas on the Pacific side like the Golden Gate Banks and San Jaime Banks, which represent runs of about 25 miles and 23 miles from the marina, respectively. Approximately two miles long, the Golden Gate is a high spot that rises from the ocean floor to 40 fathoms, drawing in massive schools of baitfish and the larger species that feed on them. While the San Jaime Banks cover a smaller area, this series of underwater peaks also comes up to about 40 fathoms creating a perfect ambush point for billfish and other predators to surprise their prey.

Cruisers and pangas out of the East Cape often head to an area known as Los Frailes, a point located above the Gordo Banks (another popular fishing spot near San Jose del Cabo) and below Cabo Pulmo. Los Frailes is about 36 miles from Cabo San Lucas, so it represents a long run for boats out of Cabo. This productive area is easily within the reach of the East Cape charter fleets, however.

Edwards points out that because the shelf drops off so quickly in the East Cape, there are many areas close to shore that offer exceptional fishing for blue water species. “There’s a ridge that runs along Punta Arenas marked by a large sand dune, where the action can be fast and furious for tuna, marlin and other offshore game fish, especially during the months of May and June.” he says. “If you spot a school of porpoise near this ridge at this time of year, it’s likely the yellowfin will be swimming with them. There are often bigger tuna in the mix too, sometimes in the 100-pound class and larger.” According to Edwards, another productive East Cape fishing spot is Cerralvo Island, which is about a 7-mile boat ride from the East Cape lodges in Los Barilles. This large seamount features many underwater slopes, ledges and high spots that provide cover for massive schools of mackerel, caballitos, sardinas and other indigenous baitfish. Of course, wherever the baitfish are, you’ll also find a variety of saltwater predators lurking about. Cerralvo produces plenty of dorado and yellowfin tuna, as well as big blue and black marlin (ranging from 250 to over 900 pounds) that move in to feed on the species during the summer months. The beaches and rocky points of Cerralvo also offer East Cape anglers exceptional fishing for roosterfish, cabrilla and pargo and other inshore species.

Bobby Van Wormer Jr., who grew up fishing the East Cape lodges owned by his father, “Bobby Sr.,” (Punta Colarado, Palmas de Cortez and Playa del Sol) has his own favorite spots in the area. “The waters just outside the protected Cabo Pulmo marine reserve can be extremely productive,” Van Wormer says. Another great place to fish is Bajo de la Rivera near Punta Arena, an area about 10 miles south of Los Barilles and 5 miles north of Punta Colorada. The action there during the summer for dorado, striped marlin and big blue marlin can be phenomenal. I also like the spot known as ‘Ocho-Ocho,’ located about 20 miles north of Los Barilles,” added Van Wormer.

Looking Forward
While the fishing off Cabo and the East Cape still ranks among the best anywhere on the planet, the onshore development continues and the local waters play host to an increasing number of boats. Edwards has watched Cabo’s amazing transformation over the years, and is in awe of the changes that have taken place. “Up until about 20 years ago, you could sit at the Hotel Finesterra’s Whaler’s Bar in Cabo San Lucas and watch game fish jump and chase bait just beyond the surfline. Now, the view is blocked by a high-rise addition to the hotel. “Almost every square inch of that beach on the Pacific side of the Cape is covered by hotels and condos today,” said Edwards. The development has continued up the line, all the way through the Corridor to beyond San Jose del Cabo,” Edwards added. This trend is continuing, and there’s nowhere left to go along the coast but north.”

Although the East Cape region has yet to become as commercial as Cabo, Edwards believes it’s definitely headed in that direction. “There are already new developments breaking ground in the area, and additional boats are being built to fish the East Cape as we speak,” he said. “I feel it’s just a matter of time until civilization envelops this region. While Edwards believes the East Cape will eventually become like Cabo, Van Wormer, who is also the Secretary of Tourism for Baja Sur, envisions a different picture taking shape. “Cabo San Lucas grew very quickly, without enough thought put into land use and conservation,” Van Wormer said. “We are ensuring that better planning takes place in the East Cape so this region remains unique and retains its scenic beauty and amazing resources. As long as we take these measures, I don’t see this area ever becoming as developed or commercial as Cabo,” he added. In an effort to ensure the future quality of East Cape fishing, Van Wormer has helped broker an agreement between sportfishermen, the local commercial fisherman’s union, and the municipal, state and federal governments on an extensive gillnet and long-line ban. “The new protected area is about 50 miles long – from Los Frailes in the south, all the way to Punta Pescadero in the north – and it extends about 25 miles out,” said Van Wormer. “These waters are now strictly reserved for sport fishing. Local commercial fishermen have agreed to use only hook and line in this area, and to target mainly the plentiful triggerfish populations,” he added.

According to Van Wormer, the new regulations are already having a positive effect on sport fishing in the East Cape. “There’s a noticeable difference after only a matter of months,” he said. “We are seeing a lot more bait and marine life in the area, and the fishing is getting better everyday. We’ve held an annual roosterfish tournament at Palmas for 40 years, and this year’s event produced 182 roosters for 14 boats – the best fishing ever.” It’s Van Wormer’s feeling that the recently adopted restrictions on commercial fishing, combined with the protections already in place at Cabo Pulmo, will have a “spill-over” effect that will improve fishing all along the East Cape. He also hopes that the latest changes in the East Cape will spark new protected areas off Cabo, where gillnetting and long-lining is still permitted. “We’re hoping our efforts will not only make sport fishing better in our area, but that they’ll have a positive influence throughout all of Baja,” Van Wormer said.

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